Looking for the best Trastevere restaurants and bars? You’ve come to the right place! This Where to eat in Trastevere guide covers all of the best restaurants and bars in Trastevere, with some additional tips on Trastevere nightlife. Plus, right at the bottom, some of the best Trastevere hotels.
The wealth of Trastevere restaurants and bars make Trastevere after-dark one of Rome’s most popular places to eat and drink. In fact, it would be be fair to say that the Trastevere district is synonymous with Roman nightlife, thanks to the broad range of Trastevere restaurants and the great pubs and Trastevere bars, many of which are also patronised by locals.
However, if you arrive in Trastevere without planning where to eat – especially at weekends – you can quickly find yourself without a Trastevere restaurant table, and also crowded out of the best Trastevere bars.
Best Trastevere restaurants at your fingertips
Accordingly, this Where to eat in Trastevere guide also includes some tips about when to go out, if and when to book a table, and what to do if everything seems to be fully booked in Trastevere! (Hint – often happens on a Saturday night!) It’s also worth saying that Trastevere is home to a fair few tourist traps – and we definitely want you to avoid those.
So read on for the best Trastevere restaurants and bars in this Where to eat in Trastevere guide, and find out how to beat the crowds!
And if you’re looking for a guide to Tiber Island – the cute island in the middle of the river Tiber right in front of Trastevere – you’ll find all the information here.
30+ Trastevere restaurants: Where to eat in Trastevere
The Trastevere restaurant scene has evolved significantly in recent years. Once dominated by touristy restaurants, with a few down-at-heel trattorias patronised by locals-in-the-know, today Trastevere restaurants include a massive range of eateries for all tastes and budgets. So whether you fancy a modern Trastevere restaurant, a typical Roman trattoria, some high quality street food on the go, or some tasty ethnic or fusion food, you can find it all. Some of my favourite Trastevere restaurants include:
Pizza Re 77 – Historic Neapolitan pizzeria Pizza Re has recently opened a branch at number 77 Viale Trastevere. Expect classic, deep-pan pizzas with seasonal and classic Neapolitan toppings such as salsiccia and friarelli; the fried zucchini pizza is excellent as well. Deep fried starters include huge deep fried mozzarella; there’s also a great parmigiana, and a kind of pizza-strudel which has to be sampled to be believed.
Polpetta Trastevere – This fast casual eatery in Rome’s buzziest going-out district, is both a simple street food joint and a restaurant with a lovely rooftop garden. Heavily patronised by tourists due to its Trastevere location, this is the fourth Polpetta restaurant in the city, after Ostiense, Monti and Fiumicino. But Romans in the know are happy to drop in as well, particularly for the aperitivo hour which is accompanied by meatballs. If you’re planning on staying for dinner, book a rooftop table and enjoy spaghetti with meatballs under the stars. You won’t be disappointed! Vegans are catered for too.
Treefolks – Treefolks Trastevere has the honour of being the only true British gastropub in Rome. Drinks wise, expect to choose from 12 cask ales and 8 beers on tap, plus around 500 kinds of whisky – 60 of which are discontinued or rare types. The food is exciting and broad too – full review here.
Rose Tartare Bar – This Instagram-friendly pink-hued Trastevere restaurant that specialises in delicate fish tartares has got girls’ lunch written all over it. However, in my experience, guys love this restaurant too! Find out why in my full review, here.
La Tavernaccia – Recognised by the SlowFood grassroots association which promotes local food and traditions, La Tavernaccia is a stately, Roman-style trattoria offering hearty portions of Roman classics and excellent local wine. Booking essential.
Pianoalto – Situated near Trastevere Station and offering one of Trastevere’s few terrace restaurants, Pianoalto Openspace hosts the Aria Contemporary Restaurant flanked by a lovely rooftop bar with river views of Testaccio. The menu is competitively priced while prizing high quality and seasonal ingredients. Full review here.
Jacopa – Although technically a hotel restaurant, serving Hotel San Francesco, Jacopa is unique amongst Trastevere restaurants. Boasting a contemporary gourmet restaurant and modern rooftop terrace which is perfect for the aperitivo hour, this is the place for cocktails and dinner. The dinner menu is all about the ‘eating everything’ culture which unites traditional Roman poor-food (no part of the beast is wasted at the table) and and an energetic, modern way of looking at food in a sustainable but subtle way. Full review here.
Peppo Al Cosimato – A cosy pizza and Roman fish restaurant, Peppo al Cosimato combines two apparently contrasting dinner choices whilst providing ample charm and value for money. Did you know that sustainable, cheap fish is a staple of Roman cuisine? Now you do! Full reivew here.
Cambio Trastevere – While your genial host may well burst into song at some point – late nights at Cambio Trastevere are quite something – it’s worth coming to this Trastevere restaurant just for the food – a genteel take on Roman and Italian cuisine. Full review here.
Eggs Trastevere – Can you build a restaurant menu around a single ingredient, the humble egg? Eggs Trastevere is the proof that you can! As well as being the perfect destination for carbonara fans, Eggs offers so much more, uniquely amongst Trastevere restaurants. Full review here.
Pizzeria Ai Marmi – Loved by locals and tourists alike, this cavernous restaurant serves the thin and crispy classic Roman pizza alongside golden fried goodies and traditional desserts. It’s a spit and sawdust affair with huge queues at weekends, but will definitely help you get in the Roman mood. It’s harsh neon lighting means that locals nickname it ‘the morgue’.
Trattoria Da Enzo al 29 – Easily one of my favourite Trastevere restaurants, the only disappointing thing about Da Enzo al 29 are the huge queues to eat here. You can book a table for the start of the night (7.30 pm) but no later, due to the fast turnaround of diners here. Booking is essential, and here’s what to expect, food wise: fresh, vegetable-rich antipasti, which you must not skip; hearty Roman first courses and mains, plus some of the best desserts in Rome. Try the tiramisu, buried with bars of dark chocolate; or the wild strawberry trifle, delicate and perfumed.
Seu Pizza Illuminati – Modern pizzeria offering wow-toppings on a pillowy, Neopolitan-style base. Owner Pier Daniele Seu is a bit of a legend in his own lunchtime, and has even opened a branch of this pizzeria at the Bulgari Resort in Dubai. Booking essential and definitely worth it.
Tiberino Ristorante – Tiberino Ristorante on Tiber island in Rome, offers breakfast, lunch, aperitivo or dinner with river views. Opening at 6.30 am for breakfast, the quality coffee bar options continue throughout the day with fresh sandwiches and snacks. By night, head for Tiberino’s upper room, a cosy, wood-lined affair, where padded benches by peerless river views make this, quite frankly, a pretty romantic spot! Watch the world go by while you sample a menu which is firmly in the Roman tradition, enriched with a modern touch or two, and driven by seasonal ingredients. Full review here.
Proloco Trastevere – Lazio-focused restaurant Proloco Trastevere offers sustainable dining in Rome, thanks to a unique farm-to-table approach that prizes Lazio produce and celebrates the region’s favourite recipes. Situated in Via Goffredo Mameli in Trastevere, Proloco Trastevere’s unique formula makes this a great spot for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, and after dinner cocktails or wine. Full review here.
Ristorante Le Mani in Pasta – This elegant fish restaurant is well-loved by locals and booking is essential. Don’t miss the Mediterranean lobster, as well as classics such as spaghetti with clams.
La Punta Expendio de Agave – Part Mexican restaurant and part dive bar, this cave-like slice of cool is perfect when you’re looking for something different. From brightly coloured tortillas to jewel-like cocktails, this is a slightly larger-than-life interpretation of Mexican cuisine, but fun and fascinating in its own way.
Osteria da Zi Umberto – Situated in one of Trastevere’s most underrated piazzas, this is a well-priced, classic Roman trattoria which always hits the spot. Perfect on warm nights for a traditional Roman pasta dish and some Trastevere people watching.
Santo Trastevere – This hip restaurant and cocktail bar in an out-of-the-way piazza in one of Trastevere’s loveliest corners exudes originality, flair and warmth, and has quickly become a firm favourite with a local crowd and travellers in the know. Full review here.
Best street food in Trastevere: Trastevere restaurants serving food to go
Eating street food in Trastevere is always a great idea. Today, the Trastevere street food scene ranges from international flavours to Roman and Italian snacks. This is also a great solution when all the restaurants are full you don’t have a reservation – grab some food to go and enjoy the streets of Trastevere! Here are some of my favourite street food places in Trastevere:
Mammo – Mammo is a cosy all-day eating place in the heart of Trastevere, dearly loved by locals and tourists alike. While excelling in sourcing great Italian charcuterie cuts, wines and craft drinks, Mammò also serves international-style breakfast, brunch and lunch goodies for those hard-to-find flavours right here in Rome. Exceptional quality pastrami sandwiches and more, salads, wraps, burgers and pancakes are all available here, with dine-in, takeaway and delivery options too! The restaurant recently expanded to include pasta dishes and an impressive range of slow-smoked BBQ meats – just one more reason to eat in.
Trapizzino – The brainchild of Roman pizza guru Stefano Callegari, Trapizzino serves a patented street food snack which has become incredibly popular in Rome. These mouth-watering pockets of pizza dough are stuffed with the sort of oozing fillings you’d usually see on a trattoria table – expect melanzane alla parmigiana, meatballs in tomato sauce, or hunter’s chicken, for around €4 per sandwich (and be ready to order two or three if you’re looking to substitute your evening meal). Expect a queue at peak hours.
Suppli Roma – This legendary Trastevere street food joint serves suppli – another traditional Roman food best eaten on the go. These rice balls are made from cooked risotto rice which is breaded and fried. They are often cooked with mozzarella inside which melts during the cooking process. When broken in your hands, this mozzarella stretches out into a gooey, telephone wire of cheesy goodness, so suppli are often called suppli al telefono for this reason!
Le Levain – This French bakery is a real hidden gem in Rome, serving everything from buttery croissants to baguettes and cakes, perfect for a quick snack any time of day. The food is authentic and very moreish.
Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti – This artisan cookie store makes all its own biscotti, cookies and cakes on the premises in vintage ovens and serves customers with original antique scales. It’s perfect for a sweet treat any time of day, as well as packs of cookies for an authentic Roman gift.
Gelateria Fatamorgana Trastevere – One of Trastevere’s best-loved icecream stores, expect all-natural flavours, original tastes, and lactose-free & vegan options. Unmissible gelato in Trastevere.
Best bars in Trastevere: Where to drink
The Trastevere bar and pub scene can be confusing at best. Although you will probably stumble across a main drag of bars on Vicolo del Cinque or Via della Scala, it is mostly worth pushing through to find something a little more authentic and tourist-free. Here are a few of the best bars in Trastevere:
Freni e Frizioni – This cavernous Trastevere bar, which occupies a handsome, river-side piazza, used to be a car workshop – hence the name, which means brakes and clutch. While Freni e Frizioni has had a laid back style from the start, which also characterises the bar today, its owners – all cocktail gurus – have today transformed it into one of the best cocktail bars in the city. In 2020, it made the list of the top 50 bars in the world, and you can expect consistency and quality, no matter how niche your order. Indoor and outdoor spaces make this a great choice year round.
Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa – This tiny watering hole in a grubby back street in Trastevere opened in 2001, and is today Rome’s most important craft beer bar – as well as one of the best bars in Trastevere. The brain-child of Manuele Colonna, a pony-tailed publican whose other brilliant inventions have included Ma Che’s (almost) annual beer cruise to Barcelona, and the beer distribution project, Domus Birrae, which ensures that great craft beer is available all over the city. Known by locals as Macche, it’s a pub whose constantly evolving tap-list – comprising mostly Italian, Belgian and German beers – never fails to delight. It’s open all year round except Christmas Day, making it an essential and curiously reassuring fixture in the Roman craft beer scene.
Q’s Rummeria – This tiny Trastevere dive bar is patronised by bar owners and baristas into the small hours of the night, who appreciate its quirky interiors and well-stocked bar. From the framed, vintage copies of Penthouse to the rum-heavy drinks selection, this bar oozes character without ever feeling sleazy. It’s one of my absolute favourites on long nights and is sufficiently alternative to mostly escape crowds of tourists.
Big Star Bar Diner – Part pub, part pavement café, this laid-back Trastevere bar always attracts a great crowd of young, unpretentious locals, while also offering occasional live music nights to liven things up.
Malto – This relatively new bar on the quiet side of Trastevere is the ground-floor bar to a charming B&B, known as Malto Palace. A small rooftop garden with just a few covers makes this one of Trastevere’s best bars in the summer. Come here for great craft beer and a young, laid-back crowd.
Bar San Calisto – This Trastevere institution is one of the best bars in Trastevere and so well loved by locals that they staged a protest when it temporarily shut a few years ago. With faded football posters on the walls, it’s a slice of history serving some of the cheapest drinks in Trastevere. Come for cheap beers, an after-dinner amaro, a spritz or two – but probably not the paint-stripper wine.
Coffee Pot Trastevere – Part bar, part club, and part fusion restaurant, the Coffee Pot chain of eateries across Rome always attracts a young and fashionable crowd in search of cocktails and sushi. Expect lots of flirting and an impromptu dance-floor with DJ at weekends.
VinAllegro – This well-appointed wine bar, with its chic, wood-lined interiors, is perfect for the wine connoisseur looking for a slightly more elegant night out in Trastevere. Prices are fair for the quality of wine.
Santo Trastevere – This cool cocktail bar and eatery in an out-of-the-way piazza in one of Trastevere’s loveliest corners exudes originality, flair and warmth, and has quickly become a firm favourite with a local crowd and travellers in the know. Full review here.
Best Trastevere hotels: Where to sleep
There are plenty of Trastevere hotels and B&Bs – the trick is avoiding those which are right in the middle of the Trastevere nightlife scene, as they can get pretty noisy. The following Trastevere hotels include a few different choices for every budget. Click on each name for photos and booking.
Cheap Trastevere hotels
Trastevere Colors, situated 300 m from Porta Portese market and handy for the direct train to the airport, is also on the peaceful side of Trastevere. The B&B features modern, comfortable rooms, with prices for a double starting at €65 per night. Click here for photos and to book.
Hanky Suite may have a suggestive name but this is a clean, bright accommodation option right in the cobbled heart of Trastevere. Double rooms with private bathrooms start at around €75 per night. Click here for more info and to book.
Mid-priced Trastevere hotels
Hotel San Francesco, which hosts restaurant and cocktail bar Jacopa, is an excellent choice on the quiet side of Trastevere. Not far from the Roma Trastevere train station, which provides a direct link to Fiumicino Airport, modern, well-appointed rooms provide some affordable luxury. Prices start at around €90 per night. Book here.
Arc Trilussa 44 – This two-bedroomed apartment with a living room and two bathrooms is perfect for a family. Despite its super-central location, this former architectural studio is an escape from busy Trastevere. Even better, prices for the whole apartment start at €130 per night. Click here for more information.
Luxury Trastevere hotels
Horti 14 Borgo Trastevere – Just moments from Trastevere’s botanical gardens, this modern garden hotel is perfect for lovers of minimal, luxury style. It is a haven of peace, but close to the action as well. Apart from offering beautifully appointed, modern rooms, it’s outdoor spaces are charming too. Doubles start at around €300 a night. Book here.
VOI Donna Camilla Savelli Hotel – This former convent property is a grand, castle-like affair in its own peaceful grounds, just a five minute walk from the Trastevere nightlife. Choose this hotel for its elegance, grandeur, and attention to detail. Doubles from €230 a night. Click here for all the pics!