Treefolks Trastevere is the first British gastropub in Rome, and this cosy, all-day dining venture is a very welcome addition at a time when comfort food is the order of the day.
British pub culture is famous worldwide, and like its cousin, Irish pub culture, is hard to replicate without getting into cartoon territory. However, the new Treefolks Trastevere is an impeccable incarnation of a British gastropub, born of cosy weekend pilgrimages to wood-lined pubs beyond the Channel and lots of expertise in the whisky and beer department.
It’s almost a little too spotless at the moment, but I am confident that hordes of drinkers and diners will introduce some tasteful stains, dings and scratches as life proceeds in this charming corner of Trastevere.
Located between piazza Ippolito Nievo and Trastevere Station, Treefolks Trastevere is the latest new project on the lower West side of Trastevere and a timely reminder that the Porta Portese – Trastevere Station – Ponte Testaccio district is now an actual thing.
If you’ve been in Rome for a while, you may remember the original Treefolks pub which was near the Colosseum, but closed around five years ago and was a cosy wood-lined, craft-beer watering hole. The new Treefolks Trastevere is a much bigger and more ambitious project in every sense. Divided into three areas, with a Cask bar at the entrance, Saloon with open-fire for dining and the Scotch Room, a kind of snug for whisky enthusiasts, this is a heritage project with a 1920s vibe.
Drinks wise, expect to choose from 12 cask ales and 8 beers on tap, plus around 500 kinds of whisky – 60 of which are discontinued or rare types.
Even more impressive is the food proposition, which kicks off at 8 in the morning and runs through until 2am (lockdown protocols permitting).
From 8am until mid-afternoon, the menu focuses on breakfast and light bites, with competitively priced club sandwiches (€9 for the smoked salmon version), and what is described as a full English breakfast for €15 (not tried it yet so can’t vouch for the authenticity!) There’s avocado toast and Eggs Benedict as well, plus savoury and sweet maritozzi (€1.50-€4.50) for a Roman twist. To drink, choose from speciality coffees, an impressive menu dedicated to tea, and a range of cocktails (including six varieties on Bloody Mary alone, priced at €7 a pop).
Afternoon tea is available until 6.30pm, while the rest of the menu switches from about 5.30pm to something more formal and expansive. The bar dinner menu features fried goodies, pies, burgers and fish and chips. Meanwhile, the gastro menu starts with classy tartares and raw fish options, including oysters, as well as tasty plates like a carbonised poached egg. First courses are priced at €7-€14.
I tried a stunning black cherry, whisky and stracciatella risotto which really hit the spot.
in terms of mains, the Treefolks Trastevere menu moves onto creative dishes featuring octopus, salmon and wild-boar cheek, plus daily specials, priced at €14-€20.
While the whisky and beer lists turn heads, spare some room for the imaginative cocktail menu which has some really interesting options. I loved the Negroyster, combining Laphroig, speciality coffee and porter (€8). The ample cocktail list, which also includes specials inspired by different countries round the world, are priced €7-€14.
The desserts are fresh and flavourful, such as the cheese cake topped with mango ice-cream (€7). Don’t miss the house tiramisu (€7) which comes in a collectable can, alongside a few other limited edition brews (also available on the website).
All in all, this is an ambitious, international project which also manages to be intimate, personable and cosy at the same time. And I for one am very happy to welcome Treefolks Trastevere to the hood.
Testaccina was a guest of Treefolks
Treefolks Public House | Viale di Trastevere, 192 | Rome | Tel 06 8765 6024