The Trastevere neighbourhood is a pretty-as-a-picture destination which is one of the highlights of Rome after dark. However, although the restaurant scene has improved in recent years, it’s all too easy to get waylaid in a sub-par trattoria, encountering a disappointing bang for your bucks and inferior service.
Trastevere fish restaurant Vizi Capitali is tucked out of the way in this touristy neighbourhood, but out of sight shouldn’t mean out of mind.
This authentic restaurant focuses on freshly caught fish from the Lazio coastlines, and chef Fabio Di Felice is passionate about combining seasonal fish with seasonal vegetables for a truly local experience. Born in Terracina, on the south Lazio coast, he has seawater in his veins and a truly profound understanding of how to prepare fish. Expect smaller, sustainable catches to star in a menu which changes daily – inspired by what turns up in local fishermen’s nets.
Vizi Capitali means ‘deadly sins’ in Italian, but your only major mistake when visiting Rome would be missing out this exceptional restaurant experience. I recently visited Vizi Capitali for a special tasting menu to try out their unique style.
We started with the freshest raw delicacies: raw red prawn and burrata in a bun, plus slivers of sea-bream carpaccio.
We moved on to an exquisite dish of baked fennel rings with amberjack, fresh tomato salsa, ricotta and aubergine strips. This was a stunning vegetable combination, although the delicate fish was a little lost in the tomato flavours.
It was time to sample the first course menu. These hand-made ravioli with minced gurnard and artichoke filling were dressed with pieces of gurnard and lemon zest. This proved a fantastic combination of flavours that worked well with the rustic, hand-fashioned ravioli.
We still had another pasta course, and these fresh egg tagliolini were sensationally combined with baby octopus and a sauce made from broccoli greens. Once the pureed vegetables were thoroughly mixed with the pasta, the greens covered the flavour of the fish a little, so I would recommend stirring in a little sauce bit by bit as you go.
It was time for the second course and this serving of poached sole proved a delicate dish, on a base of pureed potato, balsamic vinegar and pesto.
The dessert menu at Vizi Capitali excels in local specialities. This fragrant baked lemon tart was perfectly contrasted with a swirl of fresh, tart strawberry sauce. A great close to a light and well-though out lunch.
All in all, Vizi Capitali was a glorious surprise in this part of Rome, demonstrating a real flair for preparing local fish well. Trastevere is an essential part of a Roman holiday and now you have an extra reason to cross the Tiber. Highly recommended.
Testaccina was a guest of Vizi Capitali
Vizi Capitalli | Vicolo della Renella, 94 | Rome | Tel (+39) 06 58.18.840 | Cell phone (+39) 340 0023 133