Tag: Uncategorized

Testaccio: a portrait at Christmas

It hasn’t been an easy year for the small shops and enterprises in Testaccio. Another supermarket opened, putting pressure on a neighbouring deli and one of the area’s oldest butchers; more businesses closed, losing intense, important battles that have gone on for decades. Even for those legendary establishments that represent the area more than its…

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Bignè di San Giuseppe

An awful lot of saints are celebrated in Italy. They have almost twice as many bank holidays as their European neighbours, despite the fact that a number of festivals have since been done away with, returning to the status of feriali (work days). San Giuseppe (St. Joseph’s Day) on March 19th, is one of those…

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Pope Francesco I

In a city where the Pope is more important than the President, it’s not surprising that even the flyposting sometimes takes on a strange fervency. I found this photo pinned to a wall the morning after the new Pope’s election. The old women chat about his kind smile in front of the church of Santa…

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