Tag: surviving

Testaccio: a portrait at Christmas

It hasn’t been an easy year for the small shops and enterprises in Testaccio. Another supermarket opened, putting pressure on a neighbouring deli and one of the area’s oldest butchers; more businesses closed, losing intense, important battles that have gone on for decades. Even for those legendary establishments that represent the area more than its…

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Adolf Hitler’s Testaccio

As I was walking down Adolf Hitler Street on the edge of Testaccio the other day, it got me thinking about how times have changed. Via A. Hitler, a long, wide avenue which joins Porta San Paolo with Stazione Ostiense, was built in 1938 by Mussolini on the occasion of the Führer’s visit to Rome….

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The world beyond the river wall

For most, the Lungotevere is just the western border of Testaccio, a busy road flanked by a cracked pavement that runs the length of the river wall. Beyond that, there is only a sparse canopy of trees on a steep slope and the fast running Tiber. The Tevere is tobacco-coloured in the winter, carrying debris…

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