Tag: surviving

Testaccio: a portrait at Christmas

It hasn’t been an easy year for the small shops and enterprises in Testaccio. Another supermarket opened, putting pressure on a neighbouring deli and one of the area’s oldest butchers; more businesses closed, losing intense, important battles that have gone on for decades. Even for those legendary establishments that represent the area more than its…

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6 Ideas For Surviving Zombie-infested Rome This Summer

I lied about the zombies. But anyone who’s spent any time in Rome in August will sympathise with the sensation that it’s all just… well… a bit surreal. With at least half the population missing and the streets clear of cars, it’s easy to feel like you’re missing out on something, but this is actually…

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Biker beware: dead ends and debris along the Tiber

Rome should be a great city for cycling. Its climate is the envy of much of Europe (including northern Italy) and while it suffers from rather wet winters, they are short and mild. Warm days return in April and can last right through to December. As far as the city’s topography goes, the seven hills…

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Adolf Hitler’s Testaccio

    As I was walking down Adolf Hitler Street on the edge of Testaccio the other day, it got me thinking about how times have changed. Via A. Hitler, a long, wide avenue which joins Porta San Paolo with Stazione Ostiense, was built in 1938 by Mussolini on the occasion of the Führer’s visit…

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The world beyond the river wall

For most, the Lungotevere is just the western border of Testaccio, a busy road flanked by a cracked pavement that runs the length of the river wall. Beyond that, there is only a sparse canopy of trees on a steep slope and the fast running Tiber. The Tevere is tobacco-coloured in the winter, carrying debris…

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