Tag: history

Rome Commonwealth War Cemetery, Testaccio

Commonwealth Cemetery Rome: The 426 graves in Testaccio’s forgotten cemetery

There’s a famous cemetery near Piramide – the non-Catholic cemetery – where everyone goes to visit the graves of Shelley and Keats. But today I want to talk about Testaccio’s other cemetery, the one no-one talks about. Rome’s Commonwealth War Cemetery, on the other side of Via Nicola Zabaglia. Unlike its popular neighbour, whose distinct…

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Easter in Rome involves a famous Via Crucis procession on Good Friday afternoon.To avoid the crowds, try the Via Crucis in the Testaccio district instead.

Visiting Rome at Easter: the Via Crucis procession in Testaccio on Good Friday

The Via Crucis, or Stations of the Cross, is a well-established Christian ceremony where worshippers attempt to walk in the steps of Christ on his journey to Calvary, held each year on Good Friday. In Rome, the Pope’s evening Via Crucis is one of the most atmospheric traditions of Easter Weekend, with the pontiff presiding…

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Review: Luxe Associate Travel’s Culinary Walk through Rome

Borders are funny things, aren’t they? By defining territories, which piece of land some ancient King or Emperor annexed, they try to delineate populations, even impose a limit on where a certain tongue is spoken. But people, like languages, are fluid. Look at Rome right now: full of lost souls and adventurous souls and new…

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Testaccio: a portrait at Christmas

It hasn’t been an easy year for the small shops and enterprises in Testaccio. Another supermarket opened, putting pressure on a neighbouring deli and one of the area’s oldest butchers; more businesses closed, losing intense, important battles that have gone on for decades. Even for those legendary establishments that represent the area more than its…

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Rome’s Ground Zero: the true story of the Vatican

Can you turn a site of tragedy into a place of peace and reflection? Ask the citizens of New York. But first, you might want to talk to the Roman people, who know a little about the transforming power of love, history and time. Rome’s greatest irony is its imperial dichotomy: its pagan empire, which…

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REVIEW: Romeo e Giulietta, Silvano Toti Globe Theatre

I have always instinctively avoided foreign translations of Shakespeare’s plays. His distinctive language – that runs like a rich seam through idiomatic English – isn’t just the literary trick of putting words in the right order. Shakespeare’s lexicon featured thousands of freshly-forged terms which have survived to this day (scholars estimate that he invented ten…

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PREVIEW: Testaccio’s gentrification in pictures, a new exhibition from local sociologist Irene Ranaldi

This Wednesday in Testaccio, sociologist and writer Irene Ranaldi launches her photographic exhibition telling the history of the area in images and icons. Hosted by café bar “Il caffè del Seme e la Foglia”, the show comprises photos taken between 1990 and 2000, some representing classic visions of Testaccio’s past, others providing a surprising or…

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PREVIEW: Garbatella’s Festa per la Cultura, Saturday June 15th 2013

Testaccio’s neighbouring rione, Garbatella, celebrates 20 years of bringing culture to the masses this Saturday with the twentieth edition of its annual Festa per la Cultura. Five piazzas and the roads that join them will be closed to traffic and filled with music, theatre, dance, street artists and stalls promoting local causes. This annual fixture…

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PREVIEW: This week, Testaccio celebrates its beloved Santa Maria Liberatrice

The annual festa patronale is almost upon Testaccio – the day when the rione’s patron saint, Santa Maria Liberatrice, is celebrated in the piazza with a parade and party. The official festival period officially opened Friday evening with a church service and over the next eight days, the main piazza will be filled with music and…

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