Pinturicchio 40 is an extremely high-quality Neapolitan restaurant north of Piazza del Popolo in Rome which will seriously transform any preconceptions you have about the southern city’s cuisine.

If you think that Neapolitan food equals pizza and sfogliatelle, with an emphasis on carbs and fried food, think again. Pinturicchio digs into the traditions of the Campania coastline and unravels them in neat ideas distinguished by jewel-like colours and precision presentation.

Located off via Flaminia, Pinturicchio 40 is well connected with public transport and a brisk 15 minute walk from Piazza del Popolo.

Expect refined, bright interiors – pleasantly modern by Roman trattoria standards – and smart service. Good first impressions are immediately confirmed with the presentation of a water menu, including some of Italy and France’s best bottled waters.

We opted for a tasting menu to appreciate some of the restaurant’s star dishes. Tasting menus at Pinturicchio 40 start at a very reasonable €40 per head, with a selection of wines for an additional €20-€25.

Fresh, home baked bread served with excellent olive oil and breadsticks on the table inspire the appetite.

We started with a sensational prawn eclair, which is priced at €12 on the a la carte menu. Made from a delicate brioche bread, with raw red prawn, guacamole and smoked zabaglione, this was a great start to the meal.

Next up, this squid cappuccino served with pea puree, whole peas and lemongrass was an absolute treat. This is also priced at €12 on the regular menu.

We moved on to one of the house specials – an open-ended croquette filled with tender, shredded boiled beef, provala cheese, bay leaf and basil and cinnamon powder. This is also on the starter menu of the a la carte list and costs €12. I really enjoyed the flavours and textures of this dish, and had to photograph it sliced open so you could have a look at the wonderful construction.

The pasta course came next and this was another triumph of colour and presentation – and happily, an absolute triumph of flavours (€16). This featured hand-made tagliatelle served with clams and mussels, zucchini flowers, Italian saffron and a dash of the Japanese citrus fruit yuzu (increasingly in fashion in Roman gourmet restaurants).

It was time for the second course list, with a chance to taste this tender grouper fish, served with samphire, broad beans and basil. (€20)

We closed the meal with a fabulous white chocolate mousse served with caramelised strawberries. Like the other dishes, this didn’t miss a trick – wonderful flavours and a fluffy yet creamy texture.

There was one final surprise – handmade petit fours, including some wonderful, Paris-worthy macarons. These also confirmed the quality of Pinturicchio 40.

The whole experience was extremely edifying, transforming my ideas of Neapolitan cuisine and ensuring that this restaurant is added to my list of recommended spots not only in North Rome, but in the whole city.

Highly recommended.

Pinturicchio 40 | Viale Pinturicchio 40 | Tel 06 32 27 310