Review: Eggs Roma, Trastevere, Rome
There’s a brand new, tiny restaurant in the heart of Trastevere called Eggs (search for Eggs Roma on social media), which is focusing on one essential ingredient with unbelievable panache. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, while the name is a giveaway, put aside all your preconceptions before you try this place. Yes, expect a hearty American or English-style breakfast in relaxed, informal surroundings, with fried, boiled, poached and scrambled options, but also get ready for a delicate Eggs Benedict or raw egg beaten with coffee, a typically Roman pick-me-up, all made with hand-sourced organic and rare breed eggs which I can guarantee you will never have encountered before.
The lunch menu includes lighter options, if you so wish, such as eggs paired with creamy avocado and crisp, tempura-style goodies which have barely blinked at the deep-fat fryer. But come here mostly for the extraordinarily inventive tasting menus in the evening with serious gourmet credentials, including raw quails’ eggs and savoury mousses. Or come for the eight different kinds of carbonara – including variations with saffron and black truffle – plus an incredible deep-fried version that looks like a Magnum on a stick (pictured above) to take away.
Even if you prefer your carbonara in the classic vein, the version at Eggs Roma is rendered wonderfully aromatic with freshly ground black pepper from Madagascar and a perfectly balanced blend of 50% pecorino romano and 50% parmesan cheese.
The team behind the new enterprise are reassuring names on the Rome food scene. These include the three partners behind Rome’s temple to tiramisù, Zum, plus one of Italy’s most trusted online food magazines, Puntarella Rossa. Zum’s Barbara Agosti is at the helm in the kitchen, who is also the chef of Rome’s renowned Ritrovo del Gusto. Puntarella Rossa, meanwhile, have selected the artisan wines and craft beers for the restaurant, which include a craft beer brewed in a local Roman prison, and brought together some exceptional producers to ensure that the ingredients are of the highest quality.
Whatever you do, don’t forget to leave room for a sensational tiramisù or my favourite, the creme brulee.
There are only 20 seats in the tiny eatery so get there early or book ahead, and above all, get ready to put aside all your preconceptions about the humble egg as this essential ingredient gets its Oscar moment.
Vicolo del Cedro 26, Rome Tel +39 06 5817363
Open every day 10:00 – 23:00