Traditional Roman cuisine is a compelling mix of Italian ingenuity and seasonal ingredients. And the best thing about visiting Rome is the fact that there are plenty of great, Roman trattorias or osterias which still serve the real deal, like Osteria Fratelli Mori in the Ostiense district. Famed for its affinity with offal, this cheerful,…
The Testaccina project was born in March 2013, when I broke a bone in my foot and couldn’t walk for a month. I had already been living in Rome, Italy for about ten years at that time, working as a business journalist. My job involved editing an international investment journal about real estate projects all…
It’s technically the perfect time of year for a picnic. Rome’s weather tends to get it “just right” in the late spring, achieving that rare temperature which makes sitting in the sun bearable and lying in the shade a pleasure. If you were in the capital in recent weeks, you might have found yourself dodging…
Gazometro38 review Gazometro38 is a bar and restaurant specialising in gourmet pizzas and cocktails, but also offering surprising depth across a menu which changes every four months, to take advantage of seasonal ingredients and add tasty new options for regular customers. Located in a former industrial space on Rome’s via del Gazometro, in the city’s…
While Keats & the Cats would be a great name for a jazz fusion collective, the only music I’m humming as I write this article is a rather onerous funeral march. Death awaits us all, and darkness is descending. If you were looking for a cheerful read, click away now! If, on the other hand,…
The Via Crucis, or Stations of the Cross, is a well-established Christian ceremony where worshippers attempt to walk in the steps of Christ on his journey to Calvary, held each year on Good Friday. In Rome, the Pope’s evening Via Crucis is one of the most atmospheric traditions of Easter Weekend, with the pontiff presiding…
Anyone who’s spent any time in Rome in August will sympathise with the sensation that it’s all just… well… a bit surreal. With at least half the population missing and the streets clear of cars, it’s easy to feel like you’re missing out on something, but empty Rome in the summer can actually be a…
There’s a big hole in the ground where Testaccio’s market used to be. The market has in fact been physically moved, picked up and dropped about 200 metres away, into a purpose built space near Monte dei Cocci. I’ll blog about the new market another day. Today I walked through piazza Testaccio and marvelled at…
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